When A
Weed is More Than a Weed
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My friend Vala from Harlem told me about her pitiful yield
from her garden, hardly enough for a salad, in this summer of hail, flooding
rains and stultifying heat. She said she mostly grew purslane and bindweed.
“Purslane,” I got excited. “Purslane is a wonder vegetable.
You can eat it. It’s much like spinach only tastier and full of good nutrition.
Here’s how I fix it. I steam it, add butter, salt and pepper and drizzle on a
little vinegar. It’s delicious.”
Vala asked Larry to go out amongst the bindweed and gather
her a mess of purslane. She followed my directions. “I love it,” she reported.
“Larry said it was better than he thought it would be but he wouldn’t want it
every meal.”
Nor would I, Larry, nor would I. I get hungry for it now and
then but only eat it every couple months, or when I can find it. I don’t happen
to have any in my yard.
When I was growing up on the farm, we called it pigweed. It
grows prolifically. Here, there and everywhere.
A hundred years ago when I lived in Great Falls, a woman
named Mary Missy taught me how to cook pigweed. I mean purslane. She also
taught me how to use comfrey, another weed, as tea and as a compress for
wounds. I wish I could have known Mary longer. I’ve never lost her memory.
This morning at the market in town I bought a bundle of
purslane. It’s not on the shelf every day but I can find it often enough to
keep me satisfied. I steamed the whole bunch and ate a large bowl of the
greens. Tomorrow I’ll scramble purslane with eggs.
Since purslane is a common market vegetable in this area,
called verdolagas, I asked Leo how his family cooks verdolagas and discovered that
my way is boring.
First they fry costillas, which are bite-sized bits of pork
rib (or one can use any meat), and set the costillas aside. Next chop tomatoes,
onion, garlic and chilis of your choice in the blender with water. Pour that into the skillet which fried the
costillas. Reduce the broth, stirring frequently. Add the costillas and
verdolagas to the broth (salsa roja) until the meat is heated and the vegetable
is tender. Doesn’t that sound yummy?
My next thought, now that I’m jumped out of my boring (but
still delicious) purslane rut is to try the costillas and verdolagas with salsa
verde, made with tomatillos. Mushrooms? A bit of chopped carrot? Potato? In
tacos. Oh, I can almost taste them just talking about them. Enchiladas with
cheese and beans. Raw in salad. Hmmm, tomato sandwich with purslane?
My purslane-pigweed-verdolagas cup runneth over.
Sondra Ashton
HWC: Looking out my back door
August 28, 2025
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